Michigan State University: Classical Republicanism in Rome and Florence, Italy, Summer, 2011

Wednesday, June 8

Santa Maria Overload

Day 19: Tuesday
In class we spent our time discussing whether or not it was rational or irrational for the Romans to stay in Rome after the sack by the Gauls and whether the arguments Camillus used to get them to stay were rational or irrational. I thought it was completely pointless, but it had nothing to do with the reading we were supposed to do that I didn’t do, so I was glad it went on for the entire first half of class. During the break I got a delicious canoli, then after class we started talking about Book VI of Livy, which I read maybe 15 pages of. Participation died, but Tobin tried to keep it going. After class finally ended we had big plans, so we (me, Elli, Kari, David, Kelly) headed out right away. Our plan for the day was to have a Santa Maria day, aka visit a billion churches. First we went over to Campo de’Fiori market and they had the sweatshirts we wanted to buy, but we didn’t want to buy them then, so we walked away, unknowingly bartering with the man trying to sell them, and we got them all the way down from 22 euro to 15. Then we went to the Jewish Ghetto for lunch, and found a place called Ba’ Ghetto. I was extremely disappointed. The food was nothing spectacular and was excessively expensive. I ordered ravioli, which had close to nothing inside, and I only got five pieces. For 12,50 euro! We also got deserts, so by the end my meal was 21 euro and nowhere near enough food. We didn’t even have a cute Jewish waiter! I did get to see adorable Jewish children when we walked back, so at least that made me happy. We went back to Argentina and got on the 40 bus to head to our first church: Santa Maria Maggiore. It was huge! There was a canopy over the alter on the inside which reminded me of St. Peter’s, but it was nowhere near as spectacular. The ceiling was all gold, and it reminded me of what I imagine Versailles to look like. Next we made our way to Santa Maria delgi Angeli dei Martini, which is a super old church right off Piazza Nazionale. It was also a huge church, and when we walked in a man was playing to organs, which was really cool to hear and see. The chapel and alter was designed by Michelangelo, and there’s a meridian through it that accurately tells what day it is. Next stop was Santa Maria dell Vittoria, but it wasn’t open yet, so we moved on to Santa Maria della Concezione, which was by far the most interesting. The inside was nothing spectacular, but there’s a crypt that’s made from the bones of 4,000 monks. The bones are all arranged in all kinds of decorations, and even the lamps were made out of human bones. It was beyond creepy. I tried to use my anatomy skills to identify the bones, and I think I did a pretty good job recognizing the coccyx, scapula, sternum, femur, and the lumbar spine bones. There were some S-shaped ones that I had no idea what they could possibly have been. The skeletons seemed way too small to be grown men and all looked like children, which made it even more creepy. I wish I could’ve taken pictures of it all because it’s incomprehensible. The creepiest part of the entire thing was at the end there was a sign that said “Comme vous nous étions; Comme nous vous serez,” which means something like “Like you we once were; Like us you will become,” but it sounds much more poetic in French. Next we went back to Santa Maria della Vittoria, which is the church for Fire in Angels and Demons and has the St. Teresa in Ecstasy statue by Bernini. It was slightly disappointing because it was so far away and up high, but Bernini’s talents once again never cease to amaze me. Reading the description of the scene the statue depicts was quite entertaining because the entire thing is a big “That’s what she said.” Next we hopped on the Metro (first time using it!) to Piazza del Popolo for Santa Maria del Popolo. We wandered into the wrong church at first, but it was kind of cool. We ran into Brandon, Joe, and Dylan in the Piazza, and they had just come from the church and Castel Sant’Angelo. They told us to check out the Caravaggio paintings in the church, so we went in, and I was on a hunt to find the Angels and Demons location. Kari found it, and we saw the hole in which the first Cardinal is found for Earth. Unfortunately the Bernini statue which points Professor Langdon in the next direction was covered up. We looked at the Caravaggios, but I was particularly inspired, much like the ones from Galleria Borghese. Next we decided to try to make it back across town for Santa Maria Cosmedian, the Mouth of Truth church, and hopped back on the Metro. We tried to transfer trains at Termini, but the B line never showed up and the amount of people waiting was ridiculous, so we decided to skip it and just head home. I tried to start reading Book VII of Livy when I got home, but I fell asleep right away. After I woke up I managed to read half of it, and then Elli, Kari, and I went over to the boys’ to have American Dinner Night with David. We made mozzarella sticks only in balls fried in oil, burgers, and fries. Such a good break from pizza and pasta and to finally have a meal that can fill me up! Then we hung around for a while talking and reading Livy, then David started watching Angels and Demons, so we watched about half of it, getting excited about all the things we’ve seen and know about. Tomorrow is our last excursion day, and we’re going to the ancient port of Rome, and then the BEACH! So excited to relax and catch up on class reading for the day! I also have a paper to write and a huge list of things I still need to see before I leave Rome…so busy! (PS I know a lot of my last posts haven't had pictures, and I'll try to get them in there soon, I've just been very busy trying to finish up Rome, like I said)

Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria delgi Angeli dei Martini
St Teresa in Ecstasy
My burger :)